Red Stiletto Media

HEATHER LAWTON FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on March 8, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

CREATING A WEARABLE WINTER’S TALE

I have to put my hands up here and admit that, before I received an invitation to her Fall/Winter 2013 Presentation, I’d never heard of Heather Lawton. But I do believe you learn a lot more by taking a chance and heading off-site during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week than by sticking only with what you know in the Tents.

So, off we went on Day One of Fashion Week, south and west, to discover someone new (to me). And, as so often happens, I’m so glad I wandered. The site was transformed into a kind of Winter Wonderland in the sky (with the most amazing City views). Lawton’s inspiration, it turns out, was Snow White. But then she took it to another level. What would a woman want to wear on a walk through the woods? And that’s what made it special.

These are truly wearable winter clothes. Warm, cozy jackets were paired with white (though I’m still not sure about the existence of “winter white”) pants. Asymmetrical blouses topped leather pants. Pops of color came in the form of velvet or leather shorts over thick, black tights. A pink leather biker jacket was a particular favorite of mine, as was an asymmetrical jacket in bright blue velvet.

There was a great mix of textures here, tweeds, wools, leathers, velvet. It was the idea collection for winter. But that doesn’t make it dull. There was such an imagination in Lawton’s designs, a true sense of whimsy, which set them apart from so much of what we usually see. A white sweater was embellished in long, woolen strands. A long skirt had flapper-like fringe all around.

Sometimes, you’re rewarded for trekking south, hard to do in the dead of winter. But I’m so glad I did. Heather Lawton’s is a collection I’d like to see season after season.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Heather Lawton, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway | Leave a comment

WHIT FALL/WINTER 2013:

Posted on March 4, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

WHITNEY POZGAY’S GIRLIE LOOKS ARE A LITTLE BIT RETRO AND THOROUGHLY MODERN

It’s not even Day One of Mercedes-Benz Fall/Winter 2013 Fashion Week, and already you can spot some trends emerging. Peplum skirts and tops. Big, floppy hats. Animal prints. Dots. Chunky Sweaters.

How do I know this? Well, all were well-represented at the WHIT presentation at the W Union Square. Whitney Pozgay has a real sense of how to take trends and make them work. Her looks are so girly, feminine and pretty, they ought to make your teeth ache with their sweetness, but they don’t. There’s an edge to her looks that make them wearable, desirable.

Presented, as they were, in a ballroom at the W, in dark-ish light, with models standing, or sitting on comfy chairs, it was a scene straight out of the ‘40s. And that gave Pozgay’s designs a real retro feel. But make no mistake, these were clothes for the modern girl, racing for a cab after clubbing in Meatpacking till just before dawn.

The tones were mostly muted, with pops of color coming in the form of a bright teal top under a beige jumper, a simple dress made a bit more complicated by its leopard print, or deep, dark navies.

Young, feminine, and built as much for comfort as for style, WHIT is making a statement for Fall that says beauty can have an edge. I hope we see more as the week moves forward.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, WHIT, Whitney Pozgay | Leave a comment

H.H. BROWN: FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on February 27, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

JUST IN TIME FOR FASHION WEEK, A NEW HANDBAG LINE IS BORN

One of the many, many perks of getting on the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week list is that you become one of the chosen who learns early on about new product lines, new fashion lines, new accessory lines. And once in a great while, one of these announcements is definitely worth following up on.

This season, the H.H. Brown Shoe Company, owners of licenses for such diverse lines as Kork-Ease and Carmen Marc Valvo, announce that one of their companies, Born, would be creating a handbag line for the very first time in its history. And this was an announcement that was very much worthy of note.

At an event at their amazing, new(ish) showroom space on Broadway, the company unveiled the new bags. Born is known for the fine leathers and expert craftsmanship of their shoe lines. And that attention to detail is obvious in their new handbags, as well. Beautiful, durable, stylish, these bags are designed to fit women with active lifestyles. There are lovely, big totes and smaller shoulder bags, none of which are in any way precious. These are bags that are built to last.

They use the same colors and textures that make their shoes so special, including their gorgeous metallic leathers. And the price points are perfectly reasonable, especially when you consider the fact that these bags will be around a while.

The line debuts in the Fall of 2013, so watch out for them. I’ve got mine picked out already.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion, Lifestyle | Tagged Anton Brookes, Born, Carmen Marc Valvo, Debora Fougere, H H Brown, HH Brown Shoe Company, Kork-Ease, Leather Handbags, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media | Leave a comment

NOVIS: FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on February 21, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

YOUNG, TIMELESS AND FUN

If you are a fan of photography and photographers, and I am, then the name Richard Avedon is recognizable as much because of the style of his photographs as for his own fame. It was from his famous images from the ‘50s and ‘60s that designer Jordana Warmflash took her inspiration for her Novis Fall/Winter 2013 collection.

From the Mod (or, pre-Mod) makeup and hair to the fresh and innocent styles, Warmflash did more than justice to the man whose work inspired her own. There is something so fresh and so young in her designs, they almost transport you back to a far more innocent time.

Warmflash described Avedon’s influence in “the clean lines and whimsical nature of the collection.” That was evident in nearly every piece, from a tea-length coral dress to a black sequined “prom” dress.

Though the palette was mostly neutral, there were surprising pops of color and prints, like an amazing royal-blue velvet pantsuit, a bright-orange party dress or a leopard-spotted pants and trench.

There was a nice mix of textures and patterns, from spots to herringbone, velvets to big, pouffy wools. The hair, by Linh Nguyen for Cutler/Redken was perfect, all big bangs and pin-straightness. And the makeup by Lisa Aharon for Kevyn Aucoin had that dark, dramatic eye reminiscent of Twiggy. It all fit perfectly with the theme.

Warmflash’s signature appears to be “Uptown elegance meets Downtown quirkiness”, evident in every piece of this collection, presented in that big, brick-walled space that is Eyebeam Studios. But her description of Novis’ “irreverent approach to sophistication” fit this collection best. Beautifully produced pieces, designed with the perfect mix of fun.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013, New York Fashion Week, Novis, NYFW, Red Stiletto Media | Leave a comment

RITA VINIERIS FALL 2013:

Posted on February 20, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

A BEAUTIFUL, ARCHITECTURAL APPROACH TO RED CARPET DRESSING IN HER FASHION WEEK DEBUT

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Weeks lasts a very carefully considered, specific amount of time: Thursday through Thursday. But if you’re lucky enough to be invited to one of the presentations just outside those strict parameters, don’t turn down the opportunity. You could discover something amazing.

This season, on a cold, cold day way over on the West Side of Manhattan, Rita Vinieris debuted her evening wear collection at the Baryshnikov Center, and I’m so happy I started my Fashion Week a day early.

There would be plenty of lovely, red-carpet-ready looks to come down the catwalk over the next week, but this was truly special. Vinieris is best known as a wedding dress designer, for her company Rivini, so she’s used to creating “pretty”. But her evening wear is stunning. The clean lines and architectural scope combine with built-in glamour and full-out elegance.

These dresses are gorgeous from the front, and they’re every bit as fascinating walking away. And her imaginative combination of textures, colors and sparkle just added to the jaw-dropping structure of her dresses.

It was right, of course, to move from wedding to red carpet. I can’t wait to see what Rita Vinieris does next.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013, New York Fashion Week, NYFW, Red Stiletto Media, Rita Vinieris, runway | 1 Comment

KARA LARICKS SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 30, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

BOY MEETS GIRL IN THE NEXT FASHION STAR’S DEBUT COLLECTION

In the interest of full disclosure, I wasn’t all that sure about “The Next Fashion Star”. And when I finally committed to watching, I was pretty sure Kara Laricks would be the first out the door. It was that initial collection made up of nothing but neckties. I’m so happy I was wrong, and she’s even more happy, no doubt.

Backstage before her premiere show at Pier 57, she told me going down the reality route was a great choice. “I have no regrets,” she said. “Because, today I’m working with an incredible team of hair stylists, and incredible team of makeup artists, and incredible team of PR, and all these wonderful people who have taken me under their wings. And I never would have had those opportunities if it wasn’t for Fashion Star.”

As for the collection, well, it shows with perfect clarity who Laricks is as a designer. Inspired by Japanese matchbook covers from the late 20’s and early 30’s, Laricks put together a collection filled with bold pops of color and bright graphic prints. There are pretty, girly dresses, skirts and shorts. Tops are tailored and light for summer.

But where Laricks shines is in her beautifully structured trousers, each with a little something extra. Waist bands are a bit high and always have something interesting added. And that’s where it all fits with her vision of fashion. She told me, “I am always thinking of that woman who wants just a little something different, a little something special, a little bit masculine and feminine, and then sometimes a little bit quirky, as well.”

She’s achieved her goal. Her makeup team helped. Keri Blair Walden from MAC Cosmetics achieved a brilliant ‘20s look with a black, floating lip (which wasn’t really black but purple combined with gold) and sculpted cheekbones. As Walden described it, “what she showed me had a lot of elements of architecture, color blocking and a little bit of 20’s inspiration. So I thought it would be a sweet sort of tribute to that to do a black lip with a rounded bow lip.”

And the legendary Laurent from Prive never misses. He described the slick, sleek, finger-waved hair as “a 20’s look, but updated.”

Larick’s first Fashion Week is just right, a combination of lovely, wearable clothes that are a perfect reflection of the designer, herself. It’s a long way from reality-TV neckties.

To see video of Kara Laricks Spring/Summer 2013 Mercedes-Benz NYFW runway presentation at Pier 57 click below

Video & Edit: Scott Fetterman Music: Tony Di Pietro Still Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion, Fashion with Video | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Kara Laricks, MBFW Spring/Summer 2013, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Pier 57, Red Stiletto Media, Scott Fetterman, Tony Di Pietro | Leave a comment

A GOOD OLD FASHIONED FASHION SHOW WITH ZANG TOI

Posted on January 21, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

CLOTHES TO DIE FOR FROM A DESIGNER WHO LOVES THE WOMEN HE DRESSES

You know there are designers who make clothes to make a living, or to make themselves famous. Not Zang Toi. This is a man who loves what he does, and, more importantly, he loves the women he does it for.

How can you tell? Well, there’s a joyousness in his designs, a sense of fun, whimsy, whatever you want to call it. And, when you see him walk the runway at the end of the show, there’s a genuine ear-to-ear grin as he takes in the inevitable standing ovation. And then there’s his very active Twitter. Do yourself a favor and follow him. The little 140-character happy updates will make you smile.

But a designer must put his talent and emotions out there on the runway every season, and that is where Zang truly shines. For Spring/Summer 2013, it was unending glamour. It started with cream and a long, luxuriously ruffled dressing gown. Then came intricately stitched tops and perfectly fitted skirts in the same cream. He added a dramatic black in the form of pants and skirts and bold, beautiful prints.

Pinstriped suiting moved things out of the bedroom and into the office. You could feel already that the collection was building to some kind of crescendo. Summer tweeds, wrapped and draped skirts all took the idea of work wear to an amazing new level.

Then came summer, with a pink and white and yellow and white gingham (though it’s hard to label these expensive designs with a kind of down-home farm fabric). Beautiful pastels lightened up the looks for the season: lavender capris and a big, poufy pink ball gown.

These are truly sophisticated looks for supremely confident women who know what they want, and how to wear them. To say Zang Toi knows his customer is a huge understatement. He knows her, he loves her, and she loves him.

That crescendo did come, for me, in the form of a long, perfectly tailored coat over shorts. I expected the model to step into a perfect paso doble.

Zang Toi is the show that no one wants to miss. The writers love him, the photographers can’t wait to shoot it. And in the end, as Zang strode the runway with his new muse, vbeaute creator Julie Macklowe, the crowd rose to its feet, and showed him they love him, too. Like them, I can’t wait to see what he has in store next season.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW Spring/Summer 2013, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway, Zang Toi | Leave a comment

VLOV-QINGQING WU: MENSWEAR THAT GIVE US SOMETHING TO TALK ABOUT

Posted on January 18, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

RICHARD WU CREATES COLORFUL, STYLISH CLOTHES FOR QINGQING WU SPRING/SUMMER 2013

It’s rare that I get the chance to talk about menswear. Yes, I am one of those women who thanks the universe daily that I am, indeed, a women, endowed with lots and lots of fashion choice: skirt, dress, pants, suit, long, short, bold or pastel? Then there are men: suit, shirt, tie, shoes.

Shorts are a little something different for summer. Yes, there’s Kanye making a fashion statement with meggings, but how many Kanye’s do any of us know, who could actually pull that off? No, men’s clothes? Boring.

Not, however, if you’re Richard Wu. He’s broken out of the boring menswear mold with interesting and exciting cuts, colors and textures for his Qingqing Wu Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

There is a magnificent simplicity to this collection, and yet, the beauty is in the details. His jackets are cut to perfection. Some are slightly longer, some slightly shorter, some looser, some more fitted, but all beautifully tailored.

Then, there’s color: light and airy pastel blues and greens, grays and tans. Finally, the details, different collars, high, low, vaguely Nehru or asymmetrical and varied fabric choices as well. The details showed in his shirts, as well with subtle prints in the soft pastels that ran through this whole collection.

We’re so used to covering women’s collections, and some designers throw in a few men’s pieces just because, well, why not? But Richard Wu loves menswear, and it shows. It’s what he does. and he does it so well.

Photography: Anton Brookes

TADASHI SHOJI SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 16, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

TROTTING THE GLOBE FOR FASHION

It’s easy to see why Tadashi Shoji is a red-carpet go-to designer. His formal wear is breathtaking, inventive and it always makes the woman wearing it look even better. But what gets lost, I think, is just how good his ready-to-wear is. His bright prints and incredible design is beyond flattering.

This season, Shoji took us on a trip around the world, sampling bits and pieces he found along the way. Moving from SoCal to Shanghai, we were treated to the delights of stops he made on his journey. Dresses in bright blues and oranges featured intricate prints and immaculate tailoring. He even threw in some shorts, which was a bit unexpected, but beautiful.

Next stop: delicate lace in lighter-than-air pants and dresses that could have come from the sewing rooms of France. Then it was on to the desert for long dresses and gowns, one in a sand that was so gentle compared to the pops of color that followed. Stripes in tribal colors moved us along to map in this fantastic journey, one in the most amazing shades of green I’ve ever seen, another in blue jewel tones. A group of dresses in a fabric that almost looked tie-dyed were young, feminine and gorgeous.

But it’s when you get back to evening wear that Shoji shines even brighter. Some were embellished with flowers, others were sheer and light. But one gown, with the brightest blue print top and matching chiffon skirt was, well, magnificent. He used the same effect in black with tiers and tiers of ruffles, and then, again in pink.

There are so many new, young designers out there, many doing great things. But when you see this mix of design, tailoring and texture in the hands of a master like Tadashi Shoji, you see what true experience, talent, and a design aesthetic that develops over time can bring to a runway, and a red carpet. And it is truly special.

Photography: Anton Brookes

REEM ACRA SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 15, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

SOPHISTICATED DESIGNS FOR THE WOMAN WHO’S NOT AFRAID OF A LITTLE OPULANCE

Reem Acra is another of the designers who knows her audience, and designs the perfect clothes for her woman. Expensive, classic and classy, Reem Acra’s runway is another in the list of must-see shows, season after season.

What seems like a simple design to start the show wasn’t simple at all: a white sheath with delicate cut-outs turned simple into incredibly special. White pants and a leather jacket, a skirt and a bright green shell top with the same cut-outs followed, perfect for grown-up, successful women who never want to lose their edge.

Like a mystery unfolding, the looks became more sophisticated and complicated as the show went on, with sexy, see-through tops hidden under jackets. The story just kept growing as the audience waited for the looks Acra is most famous for.

Pops of color came in the form of that green, in a sleek, sleeveless dress, and a bright, burnt-orange blocked with black. There weren’t many prints, just one jacket paired with a white dress embellished with sparkly flowers. Slowly, we moved down the party route with some body-hugging dresses, and a few that were a bit bigger and buttoned-up.

But it was when we got red-carpet ready that we saw what Reem Acra is all about, and does so beautifully. From seemingly simple gowns dressed up with a little bling, it was full-on Reem Acra. Satin slacks with a top that looked like it was covered in diamonds was followed with a long-sleeved, backless shimmering gown.

Dresses with cut-out midriffs mixed with what seemed like more conservative, short-sleeved gowns that had a hint of see-through in the tops. Another gold-colored wonder was see-through from the hips down. Sexy, but never vulgar.

Finally, the looks I know I’d been waiting for: full-on ball gowns, flowing and sparkling with the most intricate designs. A bright orange gown that opened on to slim-fitting white pants embellished in the same orange was just stunning. But breathtaking is the only word I can come up with for the final two-looks, big ball gowns suitable for anyone’s Cinderella moment.