EASTERN INTRIGUE MEETS WESTERN GLAMOUR ON THE RUNWAY

It was my first show of Fall/Winter 2015, and in the middle of that cold, mean season, Josie Natori took a room full of people, and transported us to far away Istanbul. And for the brief moments of a runway show, I truly felt I was there.

Natori, who is probably best known for her elegant, sexy lingerie, has created a collection that is not only beautiful, it is, as fashion should be, aspirational. There was hardly a piece that I didn’t crave. Cozy and warm, sophisticated and glamorous, every look evoked the mystery and drama that is Istanbul.

The shining jewel tones in her dresses, suits and wide pants were reminiscent of the city’s bright, colorful bazaar. Big wrap coats and oversized scarves were perfect for making one’s way through the narrow, old streets in the winter time. Hats and beautifully embroidered vests were reminiscent of the whirling dervishes, the holy men who spin in a raptured dance in Istanbul clubs and halls.

The perfect mix of fabrics and textures added to the romance, as wools mixed with crepes, jacquards with silks, velvet with cashmere. Along with deep blacks and bright reds, colors and prints made this one of the most exciting collections I’ve seen in a while.

There were so many standouts: an oversized sage coat, as was a black gown with feather trim. All of the outerwear was amazing. And the big jewelry, chandelier earrings, belts and bracelets in metallics and turquoise, completed the dream she was inspired to create.

How disappointing it was to leave the DiMenna center and discover that I was not, after all in Istanbul, but back in frigid New York.

Photography: Anton Brookes