Before they had their own Fashion Week, there was New York Men’s Day, a full day to OD on all things menswear. Put together, somehow, by the good Fashionistas at Agentry PR, it groups together designers for morning and afternoon presentations, always in Industria Superstudios. Now, NYMD opens Fashion Week: Men’s, with the same level of creativity, talent and brilliant design as ever. Here’s our look, starting with the morning session:
MAX ‘N CHESTER FALL/WINTER 2016: SUITED FOR DAY, OR NIGHT
The suit’s the thing for Fall at Max ‘n Chester. The line designer Peter Trainor showed at NYMD started with suiting, and ran from there. The fit was relaxed, comfortable, almost sporty, the base colors, grey and black.
Creativity came in the form of fabric, pattern and texture. Winter wools were joined by denims, cottons and quilts. There were stripes and plaids (sometimes together) to match the solid, nearly tweedy, feel.
Mixed in with the menswear was women’s wear, a perfect fit, maintaining Max ‘n Chester’s design aesthetic, relaxed and comfy, expressed in shirt dresses, jumpers and, yes, suits.
There’s nothing wrong with being comfortable in your clothes, as long as you’re chic. And Max ‘n Chester has found the way to combine both, effortlessly.
KRAMMER & STOUDT FALL/WINTER 2016: CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’, COWBOY STYLE
There’s more than a hint of the rebel in Mike Rubin, founder and designer of Krammer & Stoudt. He looks more Wild West than SoCal, but his inspiration has come from the skaters, surfers and punks who populate the beaches and boardwalks.
For Fall 2016, Rubin didn’t step away from his past inspirations, but he enhanced them, pulling some influences from a German artist, then shining it all up with Western flair.
Smartly tailored suits were matched with plaid shirts and pleated pants with ankle-length hems paired with Rubin’s take on the bomber jacket.
But outerwear is where this collection really shined. Functional, masculine and completely creative, his fabric choices turned simple coats into winter must-haves.
His debut NYMD presentation featured models standing on stage, then mingling with the crowd, fitting in with the fashionistas. It was a real winner.
PLAC FALL/WINTER 2016: BACK TO THE 80’S
It’s becoming a big week for Doc Martens. Designer Jae Wan Park paired the utilitarian fashion statement with his entire Fall/Winter 2016 collection, but then, they were the perfect finishing touch for PLAC’s looks.
Park gave a nod to the Eighties, the good fashion part of the Eighties, with tapered trousers, jogging pants and denim, his original design choice. Hoodies and sweaters (super-long, roll-necks and crews) were staples of this collection, along with the odd tee and turtle neck.
But outerwear is what truly shined. The season’s favorite bomber jackets were done in truly original fabrics and textures, hooded parkas had small details, like quilted sleeves, that stood out, and macs and even a Chesterfield, were beautifully tailored. And I loved the long, long scarves.
The colors were dark, mainly black and gray, but the vibe was young and hip and made great strides forward for this once all-denim brand.
GARCIAVELEZ FALL/WINTER 21016: THERMAL RELAXATION
If you are in search of a clothing line that can transport you to a higher level of self-awareness, wellness and relaxation, then Carlos Garciavelez’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection is the one for you.
His man is taking a step back from the stress of everyday life and spending a little time at a thermal spa in Switzerland. What does that mean? It means, relaxed, layered looks designed to wrap the wearer in warmth and comfort.
Garciavelez accomplished that goal with loose, slouchy trousers, most resembling tracksuit bottoms, given an extra chic edge by pairing them with layers of printed tees and sweaters, and sleek, tailored coats. He added extra drama by combining textures: leathers with wool in a sweater quilting and color-blocked wool in an overcoat.
The designer said, “the collection is about calming and focusing your senses through self-reflection,” and it works on that level, cozy, comfortable looks elevated by beautiful design.
© Red Stiletto Media 2016 Photography: Anton Brookes