PUTTING THE FUN BACK INTO SEXY SUMMER DRESSING

I have been a tiny bit critical (only a tiny bit, as I love Custo) of the last couple of Custo Barcelona collections. I thought some of the fun had been left behind as designer Custo Dalmau took to the drawing boards. I am happy to report the fun is back, along with a healthy dose of sex appeal.

Along with the bright, shiny patterns and wild color combinations that have for so long defined this label there was a definite pushing of the envelope. The skirts were a little shorter, some dresses had more keyhole cutouts than actual fabric, tops were cut seriously low and swimsuits were skimpier. And the best news for Custo fans, it all works.

It started with lots of black, white and red in super-light linens, silks and lace. Transparent textiles created the illusion of depth. In his notes, Dalmau called this an “ode to sensuality”, and it truly was a sensual collection. The cutouts and see-throughs made this a study of skin. But he kept to his ethos that clothes should be beautiful, flattering and fun.

Menswear was brightly patterned and comfy-looking, truly wearable for a day on a Brazilian beach or casual beers with the boys.

But where this collection excelled was in womenswear. A mostly-black dress with color blocking on the shoulders and flared skirt with top-to-bottom cutouts was a work of art. Another dress, in a combination of blues, looks like it was assembled out of stained glass. Pants were roomy and comfortable, and everything was bright and beautiful. As ever, the swimsuits were gorgeous.

Once again, the lines to get in to see the show snaked through the Tents, and I understand why. This was pure, vintage Custo Barcelona, surprising, modern and so much fun.

Photography: Anton Brookes