CHADWICK BELL: THE JOURNEY IS THE DESTINATION

Posted on November 8, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

SPRING/SUMMER 2013 IS A STYLIZED VOYAGE OF SELF-DISCOVERY

When I think Southwest Style, I think cowboy hats, boots and, I don’t know, maybe chaps?  For Spring/Summer 2013, Chadwick Bell took his inspiration from the Southwest.  It was unexpected, to say the least.

Bell brought his woman on a journey of self-discovery that just happened to take place in the Southwestern U.S.  You could see the influences in every piece.

The journey began with light fabrics, soft sand hues mixed with brilliant whites and a touch of leather in the form of a black vest.  A wearable form of gaucho pants were wide and full of movement.

As the journey continued, structures took shape.  A fitted sand leather jacket was belted in the thinnest leather, embellished with a patch.  A dress was draped, but pulled in at a high waist.  Layers increased as this mystical woman traveled on.  Then came the color:  deep teal, brilliant gold, light lavender.

As the journey concluded, the clothes got more complicated.  A real standout was a white floor-length dress with cutouts at the top of the arms.  It looked and felt like a fantastical journey.  The mix of colors and textures was masterful.  It’s a journey definitely worth taking.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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CARLOS MIELE: IT’S A BEAUTIFUL JUNGLE OUT THERE

Posted on November 7, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

SHOWING HIS WILD SIDE AT MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK

When I count the shows I never want to miss at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Carlos Miele is among the top five.  His looks are polished perfection, designed  and executed with great style, like an old-school designer.  But they are never dull, always young, fresh and exciting.

Last season, his inspiration was the Gauchas of his native Brazil.  He completely turned that over for spring, taking inspiration from the jungle.  But not just any jungle, it appears it’s a jungle of his own creation, sexy, sulty and very beautiful. He called it an “hallucination jungle”, and so it is.

In Carlos’s jungle, giraffes come in blue, and mix easily with bright golden yellow tigers.  And that was just the first look down the runway. Following was a short, black dress with lots of shine and fringe, perhaps a brief throwback to the Gauchas.

The blue giraffe and golden tigers emerged in a flowing cover-up and sexy strapless gown.  Fabrics and textures mixed effortlessly:  satin and silk, chiffon and leather.  Ruffles were regular features, most exquisitely on a powder blue gown with big, big rows of ruffles at the bottom.

And it wasn’t only animal prints.  Satins and chiffon mixed beautifully in soft, light pastel blues, beiges and bright greens, which seem to be appearing often this season.  Fringe dots so many of the looks, long, crazy and yet never out there.

Carlos Miele seems to revel in designing for a woman’s body.  This season he’s created a jungle I actually want to visit.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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BRANDON SUN’S SOPHOMORE SEASON

Posted on October 25, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

THE YOUNG DESIGNER BRINGS HIS SECOND COLLECTION TO FASHION WEEK

I have to admit, Brandon Sun is a bit of a problem for me.  He is, without doubt, a brilliant young designer.  His creativity and tailoring skills are remarkable.  His designs are beautiful, fresh and different enough to make them interesting, but not so out there that you couldn’t wear them.

But, here’s my problem.  Fur.  He doesn’t just use it, he dwells in it.  He’s sponsored by a fur manufacturer, that’s how much fur he uses.  Spring is usually a much more relaxing time for me, since it’s too warm for fur.  But not at a Brandon Sun show.  He still found a way to work fur into most of the pieces.  I recognize that this is not an issue for most people, but it is for me.

Whew, now that it’s out there, I can say that his non-fur items are just beautiful, and for that reason, I can’t resist the chance to see his collections.  This season, there were exquisitely tailored dresses with a fascinating mix of textures:  leather sleeves on a light wool dress.  A light-as-a-feather long shift was accompanied by, what else, a feather necklace.  A floor-length sleeveless dress had a long peplum.  A colorful and breezy print top paired with oversized pants.

He has an amazing way of playing with fabrics, with lengths, with styling.  He is a very young designer with a very bright future.  And if you don’t have my aversion to fur, he’s someone you’ll want to watch for years to come.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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BADGLEY MISCHKA: THE COURSE OF TRUE FASHION RUNS SMOOTH WITH MARK AND JAMES

Posted on October 24, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

TAKING INSPIRATION FROM THE BARD FOR SPRING

Ethereal, I think, would be the word to describe the looks Badgley Mischka sent down the runway at Mercedes Benz Spring/Summer 2013 Fashion Week. Not surprisingly.  They took their inspiration from the 1935 film version of “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.”

And, they interpreted it with their usual skill, intricacy and a sense of whimsy.  The colors were mystical, nearly lighter than air.  Delicate blues and pinks dotted with metallics.  Pops of color came in the form of a rich aubergine and a light coral.

This season, they combined the complicated designs of their main collection with the ready-to-wear ease of their bridge line, Mark & James, and each of them shined, in all sorts of ways.

Gowns were layered in tulle and shine.  One very light lavender evening dress was made for the red carpet.  Most of their evening wear is, of course.  But this, with its sparkle and old-fashioned design floated down the runway like a faerie. A white satin gown with sparkling peplum was a work of art. And a periwinkle blue dress looked like it was barely covering the woman who wore it.  In fact, periwinkle blue figured greatly in the collection, and it just screamed summer.

The Mark & James looks seemed more about structure, with suits, pants, skirts and dresses tailored to perfection.  And there wasn’t a single piece, in either side of the collection, that didn’t shine.

Something, for every merry wanderer of night, and day.

To see video of the Badgley Mischka Spring/Summer 2013 Mercedes-Benz NYFW runway presentation click below.

Video & Edit: Scott Fetterman  Music: Tony Di Pietro  Still Photography: Anton Brookes

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ANNA SUI: GET YOUR GIRLY-GIRL ON FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on October 20, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

CRAZY SWEET FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Anna Sui somehow always manages to capture truly cute, feminine looks without losing her edge.  For Spring 2013, there were beautiful pastels, cool blues, girly pinks and bright corals.  There was a brilliant metallic silver mini, and, of course, the requisite blacks.

It wouldn’t be Anna Sui without floral prints.  But then, she’d take a flowery top and mix it with mesh, some of it torn and disheveled.  Soft see-through tops had that black mesh underneath them.  There was lots of intricate lace, and a onesie with grey and brown leaves that was just adorable.

But I think my favorites were the looks that seemed inspired by the flappers of the 1920’s, little barely-there dresses that dropped to the waist, then flaired out minis.  Many of them had such complicated patterns and embellishments, but still managed to look simple to wear.  The styles were, as usual, anything but boring.

The bright blue or red or pink hair and dark, smokey eyes, mixed with the girly dresses and pretty, frilly tops made it all very “girls gone punk”.

You know what you will get from Anna Sui, and it’s always fun.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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ANGEL SANCHEZ: DRESSING UP IN STYLE

Posted on October 18, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

THE FAMED WEDDING DRESS DESIGNER BRINGS DRAMA TO THE BOX

When you realize Angel Sanchez began his professional life as an architect, you say, “of course”.  His magnificent, other-worldly designs are structured and built as much as they are created.

The Venezuelan-born designer, best known for his incredible wedding gowns, brings as much drama to the runway as he does to the aisle.

The first thing you notice as you step into The Box for his presentation Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week are the stunning colors.  Rich purples, bright neon greens and succulent lemons all eye-opening, but never gaudy.  When you battle the crowds and get closer, the tailoring and construction just take your breath away.  A deep  purple gown with a crisp, embroidered bodice is a true work of art.

Perhaps the most striking piece is nearly colorless, a soft peach, nearly nude strapless gown that flows from the hips is so feminine and just pretty.

Even his more casual looks had a dressed-up feel in crisp clean white with stark black blocks, covered with a bright pop of green or yellow.

This is a collection for the woman who loves to be the best dressed on any occasion, but doesn’t mind showing off her fun side.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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ACADEMY OF ART: DISCOVERING THE NEXT BIG THING

Posted on October 17, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

UNIVERSITY SHOWS OFF ITS STAR STUDENTS

Chances are the next really big designer won’t come from Project Runway (how many winners can you actually name, let alone buy their clothes?) or Next Fashion Star.  He or she will probably come from Academy of Art University, or a similar school of design from somewhere around the country, or the world.  So, it’s no wonder Academy of Art chooses several of its best seniors to show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Ian Mackintosh, the Grand Master of A of A, has a true eye for talent, and has sent some sensational and very creative designers to the big show.

For Spring/Summer 2013, the show started with a sponsored group, The French Textile Collection.  Think lace and lots of it: lace with florals, lace with abstracts, lace with jersey, all of it feminine and intricate.

Next up, this season’s crop of top seniors, starting with Iglika Vasileva Matthews, whose structured looks were inspired by the architect, Zaha Hadid.

South Korean-born Jisun Lee re-interpreted menswear and gave it a feminine twist. Yanfei Fan brought the beauty and elegance of stained-glass windows into her designs, but used lots of blacks and whites.

World-famous artist and sculptor Anish Kapoor was the inspiration for Jie Jessie Liu’s collection.  She took his streamlined, geometric sculptures and turned them into designs with very defined lines and angles.

Rounding out the potential stars of tomorrow, were the beautiful colors of Ginie C. Y. Huang, the Asian-inspired Stephina Touch and Jarida Karnjanasirirat who showed multi-dimensional pieces with exaggerated collars, lapels and pleats.

While it’s true that some of the styles that come down this runway are a little out there, remember these are students and this may be their last chance to show off their avant-garde side, before they have to get down to the business of serious, commercial clothes. But it also gives insight into why this show is, season after season, one of the hottest invites at Fashion Week.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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PUNK MEETS PEARLIE KINGS AND QUEENS AT LIBERTINE

Posted on July 17, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

MANY INSPIRATIONS COME TOGETHER IN ONE FANTASTIC FALL 2012 SHOW

One thing you could never accuse Libertine designer Johnson Hartig of is a lack of exuberance, in life and on the runway.  His enthusiasm lights up a room, just as the bedazzling on his vintage looks light up the runway.  For Fall/Winter 2012, Hartig took his inspiration from so many places:  old fashioned Cockney Pearlie Kings and Queens, punk rockers reborn, infused with a touch of India (he promises more of that next season).

The makeup, by Chantel Miller for MAC, mirrored the many textures of the clothes.  Miller described the Libertine girl as, “sophisticated, the modern nomad.  She’s such a nomad that she never went home. This is the makeup she had on last night, but now it’s morning.”

Johnson’s always shown his collections in small venues, to a select crowd of friends and followers, but this season, he told me, he’s “taking it to another level, and he’s ready to break out”.  I hope so.  Everyone needs to see the magic that is Libertine.

To see video from Libertine’s Fall 2012 runway click below. Produced by Red Stiletto Media for Libertine

Videography and Edit: Scott Fetterman

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WHAT TO WEAR ON YOUR SUMMER VACATION

Posted on June 13, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

NONOO REACHES BACK TO THE RAJ TO CREATE AN EASY, MODERN COLLECTION

Easy elegance is term we hear, and read, often in fashion.  But it is personified in Nonoo.  Misha Nonoo was born in Bahrain and raised in London, and you can find all those sensibilities combined in her beautiful, wearable designs, and in the designer, herself.

Yesterday, she unveiled her resort collection in the Terrace at the Gramercy Park Hotel.  It was the perfect setting with its climbing vines and old-fashion glamour.  There were tea sandwiches, Prosecco and scones and jam, and some of the most stunning clothes I’ve ever seen.

The collection was inspired by Edwina, Countess Mountbatten of Burma and the last Vicereine of India.  But don’t let that make you think the looks were in any way stuffy or derivative.  They were designed for the modern woman with amazing places to go and endless sights to see.  Misha Nonoo said, “think of this as the countess kind of disheveled, a little bit come undone.  But she has a very interesting, textured life, and the clothes are a little bit like that, too.”

The textures are a study in contrast that all work together perfectly:  double face crepes and four-ply silks mesh perfectly with French lace and chiffon.  The prints, from lattice prints to polka dots and botanicals are fun and quirky, the embellishments just enough and never over-the-top.  The colors are bright and fun, from vivid yellow and deep blues to, one of my favorites, a persimmon floral print dress that was perfectly tailored, but easy to wear.

From suits and skirts to light summer tops and dresses made to be unpacked and worn on a sultry summer day, the collection is subtle but sexy, just right for the grand tour, or a weekend in the Hamptons.  You could literally go to Nonoo and find every piece you need for your summer holiday, whatever event or adventure you might encounter.

Nonoo says she designs the clothes that she would like to wear and that’s why they’re made with comfort as well as style in mind.  And that’s true, the looks are as lovely and easy going as she is.

And even better news: starting this fall, her line will be carried in Bergdorf Goodman, so now they’ll be accessible as well as desirable.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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ISAAC MIZRAHI DESIGNS FOR A PROPER CAUSE

Posted on June 2, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

THE DESIGNER UNVEILS HIS SPRING/SUMMER LOOKS FOR PROPER ATTIRE

Just after the crush of Mercedes-Benz Fall/Winter 2012 Fashion Week came to an end, Isaac Mizrahi unveiled one more set of looks for Spring.  The iconic designer launched his designs for Proper Attire condoms, for Planned Parenthood.

At an intimate soiree at the Soho Grand Hotel, Mizrahi joined Proper Attire’s Rachel Molloy to introduce the new package designs, based on his own pretty polka-dotted, plaid and floral fabrics.  He told me, “I wanted to do something that was ironically wholesome.”

Mizrahi also made an impassioned pro-choice plea for the embattled family planning charity, saying equal rights are for all people, and exhorting the crowd, “if your friends aren’t pro-choice, then they can’t be your friends any more.  They’re either with us, or they’re not!”

To see video of the Isaac Mizrahi Proper Attire Spring/Summer 2012 launch party, and to hear more from Isaac and his guests, click below. Produced by Red Stiletto Media for Proper Attire

Videography and Edit: Scott Fetterman

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