REBECCA MINKOFF SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 14, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

GOOD VIBRATIONS MEETS THE MODERN WOMAN IN THIS ULTRA-COOL COLLECTION

Rebecca MinkoffRebecca Minkoff is one of those designers who finds a clear vision, sticks with it, and knows how to turn it from vague idea to fabulous fashion.  That’s not as easy as it sounds.  Often, you read the designer’s notes and, if you can figure out what that inspiration statement means, you’re then tasked with trying to figure out how that’s expressed in the clothes.  Not with Minkoff.

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For spring/sumer 2013, she took her inspiration from the photographs of Slim Aarons.  But, rather than stick her girl on a never-ending trip to the ‘60s and ‘70s, she livened it up with a chic feel that’s a little bit bohemian and a lot of right now.

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Floral print pants were topped with a slick, ¾ sleeve jacket.  A paisley, spaghetti-strapped sundress had a trendy, asymmetrical hemline.  There was a pink snakeskin-looking overall that was filled with imagination, but executed so that you could actually wear it.

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The prints were bold and retro, but never throwbacks.  Sexy bustiers were paired with fringed skirts.  Pops of color came in cool blues and bright oranges.  Whites were always crisp and clean.  Shorts were made for a weekend in the Hamptons.

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There was nothing formal about this collection.  All of it was sporty, beachy, truly made for fun.  The beautiful lines mixed with whimsical touches are Minkoff’s stock and trade.  Originality mixed with comfort is something so many of us cry out for, especially in a summer collection.  Minkoff, as ever, delivered on all counts.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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RAFAEL CENNAMO SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 11, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

TAKING INSPIRATION FROM THE EAST FOR HIS FASHION WEEK PRESENTATION

Rafael CennamoLet’s see.  Rafael Cennamo is Italian and Venezuelan.  But his collection keeps an eye eastward, toward Japan.  Truth is, this is one of those collections where you can clearly see the inspiration come to life.

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The dark, almost anime-eyes on the models was one clue.  But the complex, origami-style draping on many of the looks left no doubt.  A voluminous white gown with folds over folds over folds was an absolute wonder to behold.  A grey satin kimono, embellished with pink flowers was beyond stunning.

Rafael CennamoRafael CennamoRafael CennamoRafael Cennamo There were softer patterns on some cocktail dresses, but this collection really lives and dies by its embellishments, flowers, straps, beads, you name it.  Sometimes they’re there to enhance, other times, to cover up bits you’d probably want to cover up as you’re strutting down the red carpet, or into a fancy dinner.

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The work that went into this collection is as intense as its structure, and you could see the structure in every single piece.  In some pieces, it was curvy and feminine, in others it was straight-up architectural.

Rafael CennamoRafael CennamoRafael CennamoRafael Cennamo The colors were all soft pastels, in blues, grays, pinks and greens, and the geisha influence was never far away in dresses of all lengths and purposes.  Only Cennamo’s kimonos were tied with hard, silver ring belts.

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They aren’t all the easiest pieces to wear, I’ll give you that.  But for sheer creativity of design, Cennamo is a master.  And, he’s developing a bit of a celebrity following, so we know we’ll see his looks for a long, long time.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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RACHEL ZOE SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 10, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

THE DRESSER TO THE STARS BRINGS HER OWN UNMISTAKABLE STYLE TO THE RUNWAY

Rachel Zoe may be the workingest woman in fashion.  She styles celebrities, stars in her own Bravo show and designs her own line.  But if she’d had the time to clone herself a couple of dozen times, you could easily see her walking the runway in every single look she showed at Mercedes-Benz Spring/Summer 2013 Fashion Week.

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Every look channeled Zoe’s easy, almost-Bohemian style, from the wide-legged pants suits to the mod-inspired dresses.  From belted blazers to flowing summer dresses and shorts suits, the looks were easy, wearable, and signature Zoe.

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I don’t know if all stylists harbor dreams of designing their own lines, but Zoe made it a reality by creating styles that everyone can wear.  They are ageless, timeless, original even when they’re retro.  A white pants outfit with a bold black stripe reminded me of the Avengers’ Emma Peel, but with a very modern edge.

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On the color front, the collection went from stark black and white to the palest pinks and blues, and then grew bolder with turquoise, gold, green and rich, bright orange.  Sequined tops added extra glamour.

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And, of course, her red-carpet-ready looks really shined. There were a couple of animal prints that were actually wearable, but mostly it was a color-blocked collection that really stood out.

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I look at the plethora of TV personalities who suddenly decide they’re designers, and find it hard to take them seriously.  Zoe is the exception to that rule.  She shows, year after year, that she has the chops to duke it out with the most seasoned designers by creating clothes that just about anyone would covet.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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PARKCHOONMOO SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 9, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

AVANT GARDE ART AS WEARABLE FASHION

ParkchoonmooParkchoonmooDemi Park knows who she is as a designer.  She should.  She’s been designing clothes practically since childhood.  She’s sure of her aesthetic, and you know what you will find at her runway outings.    Loose, monochromatic, wearable, looks with only the occasional pop of color. Spring/summer 2013 is no different.

There is something sort of Zen about her looks.  They look peaceful, comfortable. No complicated patterns.  But the draping and structure is always so imaginative.  This is one part of her collection that is always unexpected.

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There was a black and grey dress that moved with every step, every breeze.  The colors may not be traditional summer hues, but the look was made for strolling on a beach on a hot summer night.

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She broke up the blacks, whites and greys with the occasional pop of red this season.  In a waistband on a Capri-length onesie, or a sash on a black dress, or the frontpiece of a light silky top, the color stood out.

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Her clothes may not be traditional, but her shows are always eye-opening.  This is, again, fashion-as-art.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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OSKLEN SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 8, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

CALIFORNIA DREAMING MEETS BRAZILIAN SOUL IN THIS NEW YORK DEBUT

OsklenOsklenI’ve said it before and I’ll say it again:  it’s always thrilling to see a designer’s very first show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  There’s something about seeing a debut collection that has you feeling you’ve made a discovery, Osklen, with designer Oscar Metsavaht, is no exception.

These easy, breezy looks are made for a summer spent in the Hamptons, or Malibu, or the South of France.  The crisp, clean fabrics and muted, barely-there colors add to the summer feel.

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The runway started with whites, blues and pink, then moved into metallic copper and see-through tops with the hint of a desert print.  Structure was the order of the day at Osklen, with almost architectural shoulders and straight lines on many of the looks.  But when the looks softened, they became somehow even more beautiful.

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Brighter pops of color came later, all bright yellow and orange.  You could see the sunrise in nearly every piece (or, maybe, a “tequila sunrise”).

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Even the final looks, in blacks, whites and deep blues, were so gentle and subtle, they could easily take you from a stroll on the beach to a dinner on a veranda, overlooking the Pacific Coast.

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Metsavaht usually shows in Sao Paolo to a very devoted fan base.  Now that he’s expanded that fan base to New York, I hope he becomes one of our mainstays.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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NICOLE MILLER SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Posted on January 7, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

THE CITY GIRL GOES BEACH-PRINT WILD

I’m so used to seeing Nicole Miller as a celebrity-red carpet standard, I forget she designs for the rest of us, as well.  But every Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, I’m reminded of the style this renowned designer brings to every day life.

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This season, Miller’s collection combined an explosion of color with a real street edge.  Her statement started with the first look down the runway, a long leather coat over skin-tight leggings.  That was followed by the same leggings with a black cut-out top with a real punk feel.  Then came summer.  A series of bright, tropical prints and blocks of bold color decorated strapless dresses, pants, skirts and tops.  The looks were young, fresh and incredibly wearable.

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The flowery patterns were prevented from getting to girly, as each look had a real edge (helped along by the slick, multi-colored hair on many of the models).  Don’t get me wrong, you don’t have to harbor a punk-princess side to appreciate this collection.

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There were plenty of looks for the girls of summer.  Dresses, shorts and blazers were soft and feminine, and every one creative.  A geometric sleeveless dress with a geometric design in patterns, pink and grey was truly beautiful.

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The edge returned when the bright prints turned from tropical to inter-galactic, the bright lights of the galaxies mixed with cool shorts, tight leggings and short, flirty skirts.  And when the two prints combined in fitted summer dresses, the result seemed impossible on paper, but worked perfectly on the runway.

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There’s a reason why Nicole Miller keeps selling, season after season.  This amazing collection is how a veteran designer remains effortlessly relevant.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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NANETTE LEPORE: THE DESIGNER SUMMER WAS CREATED FOR

Posted on January 4, 2013 by Red Stiletto Media

SHE SENDS COOL DOWN THE CATWALK FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013

In the interest of full disclosure, I have to say that I have been asking (maybe begging) for an invite to Nanette Lepore’s runway for, let’s say, a long time.  It didn’t matter the size or distinction of the medium I was covering for, there was just dead silence in response to my request. But I refused to stop asking, and when, this season, an e-vite arrived, I was sure it was some kind of trick.  But I responded, of course, and cautiously touched my invite to the scanner in the Tents.  And it was true, I was in.  Pure joy.

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So why did I work so hard and face continued humiliation for this invite?  You can’t know until you see a Nanette Lepore collection come down the runway.  She is simply the epitome of cool.

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From the Obama-Biden pins left on seats to the live band, Brazilian Girls, at the top of the runway, I was in with the cool kids at last, convinced we’d all gather behind the gym for a forbidden cigarette together as soon as the show was over.  We didn’t, but it’s that kind of cool.

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Oh, and what about the clothes?  Well, quite simply, they’re so cool.  She started the show with a summer dress in a gingham print with a halter top that screamed summer market on Martha’s Vineyard.  A striped short paired with mismatched knit tops and floral print jacket followed, and that set the theme for the show.

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The stripe/floral/knit showed up several times, and until you see Nanette Lepore pair the impossible, you’d never believe it could be done.  Her prints are fresh, the colors cool and summery, an inviting combination of turquoise, green and pink, and later coral.

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Crisp whites and sexy blacks were thrown into the mix, in knit dresses and cover-ups, with intricate patterns and peek-a-boo stitching.  Swimsuits were made in the same beautiful prints that lit up the runway.

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What makes Nanette Lepore truly special is her design.  There’s no such thing as a standard skirt, top, dress or pant.  Each one offers a little something different.  When you walk out, you can’t wait to take a bold step and mix those patterns!  Nanette said it was ok.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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NAEEM KHAN: WHAT TO WEAR ON YOUR SOUTH OF FRANCE SOJOURN

Posted on December 31, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

DESIGNS FOR THE SUPREMELY STYLISH

Whether you’re a high-end designer, or you sell schmatas on Delancey Street, rule number one is:  know your customer.  Naeem Khan knows, and caters to, his customer as well as any designer in the business.  His customer clearly likes the good life, and knows how to dress for it.  For most of us, Khan’s clothes are pretty much out of reach.  But what fun it is to dream.

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For spring/summer 2013, the theme is clearly a lavish holiday.  It could be anywhere the upper crust travels, the South of France, the south of Florida, the Amalfi Coast.  And this is what they wear when they dine, or party, if they have taste and incredibly toned bodies.

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Let’s start with color.  A long-sleeved yellow dress was embellished in black, and intricate, beautiful design.  The same pattern showed up in a strapless gown with a big bottom ruffle.  Another gown has a light lemon skirt with a flower pattern as its strapless top.  It was absolutely incredible.  Skirts were light as air in chiffons with sparkly, beaded tops.  The palest blue gown was slit to the waist, then to the thigh, then decorated with white beads and crystals.

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The prints were so bold and powerful, you’d need to be a very confident woman to wear them.  But for the more faint of heart (though you couldn’t suffer much more than a flutter to wear any of these clothes), there were at least more subdued colors.  Beiges, bright whites and patterns in black and grey were all beautiful, fantasy dresses for the red carpet moment in all our dreams.

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Nothing wasn’t embellished, whether with beads, crystals, flowers, not even the shoes.  But there is so much beauty, elegance and imagination in a Naem Khan collection, so many wow moments, so many oohs and aahs.  Blinged out caftans were beyond sexy.  Each gown was more breathtaking than the last.  And the next to last was heartstopping, a see-through white with floral embroidery and a flowing feather bottom.

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Everyone can dream, about holidays on the Riviera, parties on yachts in the Mediterranean, and owning one perfect Naeem Khan gown.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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MILLY BY MICHELLE SMITH: SUCH A GOOD SPORT

Posted on December 30, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

SPORTWEAR-INSPIRED FASHION FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013

This, I think, is what makes Michelle Smith such a superb designer and what makes Milly such an incredibly popular line.  There is a reliability in Milly.  You know who the Milly girl is and she, in turn, knows what to expect from her go-to designer.

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But that would never hold an audience for a designer, especially a young audience.  So Smith gave her good-girl looks an edge, a bit of the unexpected, every season.  This season, she experimented with sportswear:  sporty looks made with sporty fabrics.  Then she paired them with sexy pencil skirts or soft summer dresses.

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It was an incredible departure for Smith.  She experimented with fabrics like neoprene and see-through plastic, and with a combination of luck and skill, it all worked.

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There were stand-alone pieces, like dresses in a creamy peach, bordered in black and white.  And there were the prettiest dresses in silky fabrics that move so well when you walk.  But it was that mix of textures that really made this collection stand out.  Tweed over neoprene, beautiful cut-out leather over silk, clear plastic panchos over popping print dresses, every one was a creation, and every one worked so well.

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Shiny metallics really stood out, and there was even a hoop skirt, albeit a short and very modern one.

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It is easy to categorize a line like Milly as simply girly or preppy.  But Smith has made the line so much more than that.  Every season there is some new edge to it that makes it so interesting, and one of the most sought-after shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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MATHIEU MIRANO: THE BEAUTY IS IN THE DETAILS

Posted on December 28, 2012 by Red Stiletto Media

INTRICATE DESIGNS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Beetle wings made from bugle beads, seams revealing surprising pops of color, sea creatures created from stones.  This is what comes from the mind of Mathieu Mirano, the 21-year old designer already hailed as one of the ones-to-watch.

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In only his second presentation at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Mirano is already drawing the kinds of crowds normally reserved for far better-known designers.  And it’s no wonder.  His designs are so intricate, his embellishments so complex and beautiful, what he creates is as much art as design.

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A grey gown with a dinosaur skeleton design was absolutely mesmerizing, as was a green chiffon with bugle-beaded top.  But all this focus on art is not to say he doesn’t create wearable clothes.  He does.

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He used crisp, clean whites in gowns, suits and shorts.  They were set off from the pops of yellow and a range of oranges.  But a silky silver sheath that revealed a bright yellow between the double seams was amazing to see.

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There’s a reason why Mathieu Mirano is attracting so much attention, from writers to designers to the public.  He allows his imagination to run free, then backs up his cred with beautiful, functional clothes that just about anyone can wear.  He is definitely a designer worth watching.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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