When you hear a collection is inspired by the Chinese Opera, you have to worry. Prepare for a series of overwrought costumes designed for a tragic outcome. Thankfully, that was not the case when Vivienne Tam’s fall collection took to the Lincoln Center runway.
Though the ancient Kun Opera was her inspiration, her looks created a drama all their own. Her outerwear brought depth to the heavy wool fabric, with a hint of blue shining through the black, and high, soft collars sweeping around the neckline.
Blue featured widely with black in this collection, and you could see Tam’s heritage in one short, blue dress embellished with soft fabric into a beautiful design (it also came in black). There were a lot of flirty skirts in wool and lace, paired with structured jackets or chunky sweaters. A delicately embroidered white blouse topped a sleek, black skirt and a flapper dress in blue-gray was girly and lovely.
In fact, all of her dresses were a look back to the Roaring ‘20s, in a way. They were elegant sheaths, many with dropped waists. Even her evening wear was intricately embroidered. You could see her Chinese roots in every piece that came down the runway, not a single costume, just a respectful homage to beautiful design.
Photography: Anton Brookes