Elegance, construction and attention to detail are what Bibhu Mohapatra does best.  His evening wear has been at the heart of his collections, since he began showing just four seasons ago.

This season was a little bit different.  His presentation in The Box at Lincoln Center was a bit darker, a touch more moody for one thing.  He was inspired by Arthur Miller’s “The Crucible”, but not at all in a loose, covered-up, puritanical sort of way.  His emerald green gown, trimmed with black lace was glamorous, but not so showy.  Another in midnight blue, also trimmed in black, was carefully constructed, with an origami-like design.  And there was a gold-colored metallic gown to represent the brighter side.

His short cocktail dresses were dramatic, too, some with feathered print patterns, another in black looked more like architecture than pure fashion.  But the real change came with his day wear.  It’s the first time I remember Bibhu showing slacks, skirts and outerwear.  Everything from the pants to the skirts had extra touches, origami-like folds or asymmetrical patterns.

Every piece showed his usual imaginative use of combined textures and elegant details, and it was so good to see him ready to add to his already elegant repertoire.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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