BEAUTY AND THE BEAST BATTLE THE COLD TEMPS TOGETHER
Is it just me, or was there a far more muted tone to Custo Dalmau’s designs this season? The usual crazy color palette seemed much more subdued for his Fall/Winter 2013 collection.
But where the bright, spectacular color combos were missing, the mash-up of fabrics and textures that are also a big part of his signature were present in nearly every look.
The collection was called “The Beauty and The Beast.” The beauty was represented in a sporty, feminine inspiration, while the beast showed itself in ethnic prints, big, heavy fabrics and plenty of volume.
There was a definite femininity in the patterned tops, embellished with gold and grommets. Instead of bold color, there were more subtle blues, dusty pinks, greys and blacks. Form-fitted dresses and overalls were followed by patchwork prints and voluminous sweaters.
Women’s pants were relaxed, but nipped at the waist to keep from going boyfriend. One tweedy-looking pant paired with an almost art-deco looking jacket was a real standout, as was a short, tribal print jacket cinched by a leather belt. There was sparkle and shine in almost every piece.
His menswear line featured suiting in styles you definitely don’t see every day: long jackets, wild prints from checks to stripes to tribals and everything in between. Many were embellished with little pops of leather on the sleeves or shoulders.
That was the beauty. Then came the beast. Outerwear inspired by harsh Nordic winters and the beast trying to protect itself from the cold. That outerwear was absolutely inspired with big, warm fabrics and the architectural elements that sets Custo Barcelona apart.
Quilted coats were beautifully embellished. One men’s jacket in a blue tribal print was splendid. And big (I mean, really big) woolly scarves topped many of the looks.
One of the reasons Custo Barcelona is the show everyone wants to see (last season, half the invite-holders couldn’t even make it in the door), is because you know you’ll see something you won’t see everywhere else. His pieces are like works of art you hold onto forever.
I have two Custo tops from years ago that I will never let go of. This season, the colors may have been different, but the artistry and design were ever-present. I can’t wait to see the colors of Spring.
Photography: Anton Brookes