THE DESIGNER’S READY TO WEAR LINE IS WARM AND WEARABLE

This is the third season for designer Josie Natori’s ready-to-wear collection, and each season she’s taken a tiny step away from her long standing lingerie line. Natori took her inspiration For Fall 2012 from the Mongolian Desert, that inspiration came through clearly in every piece.

The models descended an elegant spiral staircase at the Rubin Museum in a variation of a runway show mixing with a presentation vibe.  Basically black and earthy, the pops of color came in the form of the richest reds, in a wrap top with a layered skirt and wide suede tie belt, and a draped silk dress covered by a wool cape.  A deep purple wrap top printed with a golden flower was paired with a sleek black skirt.  A golden, three-quarter sleeve coat with a deep purple wide belt topped a lilac silk dress.

There was a lot of wrapping and draping, in elegant shiny silks.  But the mix of textures really brought this collection to life.  Warm and cozy wool sweaters and capes combined with beautifully fitted pants and skirts. Among my favorites were the collection of cocoon coats that paired perfectly with dresses, skirts and slacks.

Though the focus wasn’t so much on evening wear this season, the pieces were magnificent, complex and elegant.  One shimmering beige full-length skirt was matched with a soft coat.

Natori thankfully hasn’t left her lingerie roots behind. In fact, she says its DNA runs through all of her collections. But this nod to the northern part of Asia is absolutely perfect on its own.

Photography: Anton Brookes