Red Stiletto Media

LIBERTINE SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Posted on December 1, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

BEADING A PATH TO A GLAM SUMMER

In the interest of full disclosure, I should begin by saying, I love Libertine. The idea of taking, in many cases, existing looks, then adding something extra and turning them into individual works of art is, well, sensational. They can be sleek, they can be serious, they can be crazy, the bottom line is, it’s the most fun collection to walk the Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week catwalk, season after season.

For Spring/Summer 2015, it is all about beads. I’m not talking about the dainty, sparkly beads that make evening gowns glitter and add a little bling to the average blouse. These are proper beads, bright, colorful, sometimes almost childlike, depicting shapes, letters, anything, really, in a series of playful, primary colors. They adorned everything from sunglasses to business suits, sweaters to shorts.

The show began, as they always do, with the gorgeous Michelle, model and muse, in a black, dropped-waist dress embellished with glittery flowers. What followed were dresses, both dressy and casual, brilliantly colored skirts, sweaters decorated with puff-balls and outerwear. A particular favorite was a long, purple, embossed coat with a kind of burnished pattern that was smart, sophisticated, yet cheeky over red pants.

This wild combination of colors, patterns and decorations can only come from the mind of Johnson Hartig. He sees fashion in a way no one else seems to, with even the most serious styles taking on a fun, whimsical edge. He told me he found it a bit difficult coming up with an inspiration for this collection. When he found it, he ran with it with a series of looks that scream summer, glamorous, edgy and unique.

Menswear was, as ever, outrageous with shorts and shirts in crazy colors and patterns. If nothing else, it takes a confident man to wear Libertine.

I have followed Libertine for years, from the tiny venues where anything goes to the Pavilion at Lincoln Center where shows are more structured, crowds are more demanding. And what I’ve found is, it doesn’t matter where Johnson places his runway, the clothes that come down it are born of the heart and soul of the designer, and that, I trust, will never change. He, and his designs, are truly one of a kind, and I can’t wait to see what inspires him next season.

Photography: Anton Brookes Video and Edit: Scott Fetterman

Posted in Fashion, Fashion with Video | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Libertine, Lincoln Center, MBFW, MBFW Spring/Summer 2015, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway, Scott Fetterman | Leave a comment

BADGLEY MISCHKA SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Posted on November 17, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

25 YEARS OF PURE, SPARKLING GLAMOUR

Several years ago, when I produced fashion pieces for CNN, I had one of the great joys of my career: the chance to visit Badgley Mischka’s showroom, just before fashion week. For me, at the time, it was a first opportunity to see how the magic of fashion was made. Out front, there were magnificent, beaded gowns that seemed to glow in a non-existent sunlight. Behind the scenes, there were racks and racks of more elegant gowns in various stages of readiness, reams and reams of the most luxurious fabrics, rows of sewing machines and women hand-beading other-worldly garments about to be presented to the public for the first time.

I have never forgotten those hours, the passion of the two men behind the magic, or the moment when I ploughed into one of those racks, creating a bang so loud I was afraid to open my eyes for fear of seeing thousands of beads rolling across the clean, white floor, hundreds of hours of work scattering like ants. When the panic ended, not a single bead had come undone, thanks to the fashion gods.

As Badgley Mischka took to the runway to celebrate the company’s 25th anniversary, every bit of that passion, beauty and elegance was as evident as it was at the very beginning. This is a label that knows its aesthetic as well as any design house: glamour, glamour and then a little more glamour. Though they do create ready-to-wear, even those pieces are several cuts about just about everyone else’s everyday wear.

The Fall 2015 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week began with a dreamy, long, white, pleated skirt, crop top and tweedy white jacket, sewn through with silver threads. That silver-shot-tweed would show up in everything from day dresses and the chicest bomber jackets to accessories. Theirs is a crisp, bright white that screams summer.

There were so many stand-outs in this collection: a flowing shirt dress in the palest of ice blues, another constructed bustier gown in the same blue, a petal skirt in that silvery tweed. Then came the florals: a crisp, white strapless gown that faded, ombre-style, into deep purple flowers. A black and grey monument to construction was printed in a barely-visible floral print. A beige ballgown was covered in the lightest mesh, embellished in the most perfect beading. And, oh to have the abs for the cropped white top with the pale blue floral skirt, the most modern take on true elegance.

Transparency and translucency were themes of this anniversary collection, with fabrics ranging from summer tweeds to cashmere, organza, brocades and laces. The color choices read like a cool summer smoothie: sea glass, titanium, magnolia, pomegranate, raspberry and blueberry.

The celebration ended with a flood of black and white balloons falling from the ceiling, and a walk down the runway with the designers, centered by Naomi Campbell. It was the classiest finale for these two creators of modern classic design, season after season.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Badgley Mischka, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015, Naomi Campbell, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway | Leave a comment

B MICHAEL AMERICA SPRING/SUMMER 2015

Posted on November 4, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

ADVANCING AMERICAN STYLE

Season after season, I have begged for an invitation to b Michael AMERICA. This season, the fashion gods were smiling on me, my wish came true, and there I was, sitting in the Pavilion, waiting for the show to start. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, to be honest. I wasn’t even quite sure why I fought so hard to see it. Then the show started, and it all became clear.

I had been opining the days when designer after designer showed beautiful, elegant, perfectly tailored looks that made me swoon. I wondered where so many of the craftsmen had gone, the designers who create fantasy. I could count on one hand the shows I had seen where clothes were breathtakingly beautiful, impeccably crafted. Then, on the next to last night of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, I saw b Michael AMERICA.

The only word I can think of is “magnificent”. The exotic blend of fabrics and textures, the amazing colors, all combined to create a collection that is breezy, and elegant, reminiscent of a gentler, more beautiful time, yet completely current.

Flouncy floral sheaths and swingy dresses let you channel your inner Audrey Hepburn, while slim, body-hugging styles shined in the softest silk. Evening gowns were so elegant, ready-made for a red-carpet moment or a night out in Monaco. The colors ranged from the brightest whites to the hottest pinks and the richest jewel-tones. And, in the Pavilion, where you’re close enough to reach out and touch the fabrics, you can see where b Michael shines: craftsmanship. This is a couture-class collection where everything is just right, every stitch in place, fitted to the nth degree.

The colorful theme continued in his menswear, with suits, jackets and pants in creams, bright colors and florals. You might think that’s too much, but when you see the crisp lines and perfect tailoring, you realize it’s just right.

The show began with a film that showed b Michael’s dedication to the art that is fashion, and to the looks he puts down the runway. The proof was there on every model, in every piece. Just when I thought I couldn’t be any more dazzled, the final look made its way, slowly, through the labyrinth that is the Pavilion: a breathtaking blue and white shirtwaist, well, it was a ball gown, worn by one of the most beautiful models to grace the runways every season. Spectacular.

Will I ever reach the rarified air where I can actually afford to wear b Michael AMERICA? Probably not. But I feel privileged finally to have seen it walking down a runway.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring Summer 2015, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway | Leave a comment

LIBERTINE FALL/WINTER 2014

Posted on September 2, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

PUTTING THE FUN IN SERIOUSLY BEAUTIFUL FASHION

Stepping backstage at Libertine is like going to visit that kid you knew from school, you know, the slightly dizzy one, the one you could never quite get a handle on, but seeing, year after year, he’s getting more grown up, more talented, and more successful.

When I first saw Libertine and the wonderful Johnson Hartig, he was showing at Exit Art, a small, eclectic space on the far West Side. He moved around, like a happy vagabond, to ever more bohemian venues. Then, last season, pure serendipity led him to a space in the Tents, I think it was The Stage, or maybe The Studio. No matter, he still smacked of the kid taken by his parents to a big, fancy restaurant, not quite knowing how he fit in.

This season, he was in the newest venue, The Pavillion, a marbled (or marbel-like), austere room with a walking space that can be transformed into any route a designer desires. It’s a very grown up room for a very grown-up designer, showing a fun-yet-sophisticated collection.

And, what a collection. First down the runway, Hartig’s muse, the always gorgeous Michelle, in a long, velvety two-piece, shining with this years embellishments, inspired by frost, snow, Gerhard Richter and Christopher Wool. The black gave way to tweeds, beiges, and bold, bright jewel tones, all sparkling in a way only Johnson seems able to accomplish.

There was a ton or outerwear in this collection, one in powder blue was fresh and young, others in plaid and bright, bold colors were covered in everything from jewels to skulls.

Mixing prints and patterns is his specialty, in ways no one else would imagine, but they work so well for Libertine.

Once again, his menswear collection is bold and wild and made for the bravest, and most fashion-forward, young men.

It has been fun, watching Libertine grow, and Johnson Hartig grow along with it. His loyal following will love what he’s put down the runway for fall. I only hope he will never lose that little boy in the “SUP” jammie bottoms who creates such fun, and beautiful, fashion.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Libertine, Lincoln Center, MBFW Fall/Winter 2014, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway | Leave a comment

SON JUNG WAN FALL/WINTER 2014

Posted on August 18, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

IF YOU LOVE LUXURY, THIS IS THE COLLECTION FOR YOU

There is something about Son Jung Wan, the person and the collection, that just makes you want to know more. Backstage before her shows, there is a contagious sense of calm. The designer, herself, seems to be at the center of it. Her lovely, welcoming demeanor, her charming smile make you expect a sweet, ladylike collection. How wrong you can be.

There is an unexpected edge to every look. This season, her inspiration was the artist, Mark Rothko, and it’s not difficult to picture in these designs. She started with “winter whites”, something I never believed existed until now. There were soft, comfy jackets, wide-legged pants, below-the-knee skirts, each one with a brilliant surprise: a swatch of metallic magic that added a tough-girl edge to some very feminine clothes.

Slowly the looks morphed, first into earth-toned dresses with little pops of color, then to something darker: grays, aubergines, jewel-toned blues. Then came the glamour, sparkly party dresses and soft, feminine gowns.

The thing about the Son Jung Wan woman, is that she is always feminine, just not “girly”. The skirts and dresses flow, but they’re matched by a harder, more tailored top. They’re sexy, but not overtly so. Her woman is smart, professional and in charge. The tightly slicked-back hair and gold-leaf lips added another dimension to the tough-but-stylish air of the collection.

Her menswear collection has that same cache (without the feminine touches). Jackets were tightly tailored or big and comfy. Sweaters were warm and fuzzy, in the same colors that made her women’s collection so inviting, and with the same metallic touches.

Son Jung Wan is one of the designers I most look forward to seeing, season after season. Yes, the looks are original, intriguing. And walking into her backstage is like entering the inner sanctum of a very good friend. It is always an honor to be invited.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW Fall/Winter 2014, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway, Son Jung Wan | Leave a comment

ZANG TOI FALL/WINTER 2014

Posted on August 11, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

A FILM NOIR VIBE MEETS ASPIRATIONAL ELEGANCE

There is something about Zang Toi. How many people, in this day and age, are, simply, elegant? About how many men could you say, “he’s a gentleman”, and know you had bestowed upon them the most perfect compliment? Zang Toi is that man, gentle, soft-spoken, and oh, so talented.

For one thing, at every Fashion Week, photographers rushing to cram the riser are handed a box, containing a sandwich (actually assembled by Zang’s mom), an apple and a bottle of water. That seemingly small gesture means more to the crews than you can imagine.

Then, there are the clothes. On the woman’s side, tailored, feminine looks for strong, independent women. Each model looked like a character from a ‘40’s film noir, but with an edge that left no doubt this was the here and now.

Big shoulders, the slenderest waists and sexy lengths combined in kick-ass suits. Think Ros Russell, not as “Girl Friday”, but CEO of a super-secretive multi-national. What started out in shades of grey and black, morphed into the richest emerald green, the deepest burgundy.

Trousers were cut a tiny bit wider in the leg, topped by jackets that were more mini-trenches in rich, luxurious wools. Fabrics were beautifully patterned and textured, embossed and embellished. There were even a few warm, plush capes to keep away the winter cold.

Then, there the gowns. And trust me, they were proper gowns, some skin-tight and Asian-inspired, others wide and regal, topped by long, flowing capes. This is where Zang Toi truly shines, sending down the runway a fantasy that we can all be empresses of the night, all that surround us merely our subjects.

His women’s wear is so spectacular, it’s hard to add the same adjectives to his menswear. All you can say is, this is the epitome of male elegance: suits tailored to the nth degree. What is the word for the Zang Toi man? Dapper? Suave? Sophisticated? All of the above. The man every woman wants to know, and every man wants to be (somewhere, deep down, even in the grungiest part of his soul).

I try never to miss a Zang Toi show. I feel honored to be invited, like I’ve been asked to a party in a part of society I’ve only ever been able to view from afar. But it’s a place I’d really like to be.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW Fall/Winter 2014, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway | 1 Comment

BETSEY JOHNSON FALL/WINTER 2014

Posted on July 26, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

BETSEY’S BACK, AND BRIGHTER THAN EVER

There are few things you can count on in your fashion life: you’ll never find that cab to take you to the off-sites, you’ll regret wearing those heels about two hours into Fashion Week and, no matter how bad your day is going, the moment you set eyes on Betsey Johnson, you’ll smile.

Over the past several seasons the legendary, wild-haired, delightfully dotty cartwheel-turning designer has been making her way back into the design business in a big way. Jewelry, handbags, all kinds of accessories, vintage and, now, clothes.

In truth, she’s had a pretty good year, with her company brought back from beyond the brink, a must-see reality show and now this, a collection proclaiming that, once more, “Betsey’s Hot!”

There’s nothing here that will surprise you. Betsey Johnson knows her style and knows her customer. Flowery party dresses paired with neon over-the-knee socks were followed by tight leather bustiers matched with long, pink ballet skirts. Sparkly minis were topped with feathery or faux-furry shrugs. The collection is a cacophony of color and print (both floral and animal), sky-high platform heels and long, long, stripey socks.

But if you feel like the days have passed when you were bold enough to wear head-to-toe Betsey, you can still fit a little fun in your fashion. Accessories abounded on this runway, from bangly bracelets to big, wild, animal-print handbags.

Once more the models skipped and flirted down the runway. There was plenty of smoke, and even a couple of bare-chested “firefighters” to put out the imaginary flames. And by the time Betsey cartwheeled down the catwalk, you couldn’t help but feel the jubilation in the room, the pure joy that Betsey’s back, and better than ever.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Betsey Johnson, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, mercedes benz fashion week, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway | Leave a comment

DESIGUAL FALL/WINTER 2014

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

THE MOST FUN YOU CAN HAVE DRESSED

When I declared Desigual’s Spring/Summer 2014 runway my favorite show of the season, I suspected I might feel the same if we were lucky enough to have them show again for fall. And, I was right. I stepped into their backstage, and instantly began to smile.

The atmosphere was remarkably calm, despite the hordes of foreign and domestic press squeezing themselves into a tiny space (thanks, once again, to the remarkable Deb Hughes and her incredibly organized staff). And then, there are the clothes. I defy anyone to slide into a Desigual dress, shirt, jacket, pair of shoes, whatever, and not feel fun and flirty and just plain happy, all day long. Yes, these clothes make people happy, and that’s by design. But they’re also cute and lovely and easy to wear. And that’s down to a team of designers whose main brief is to make clothes that make men and women happy.

Let’s start with their overriding theme: “La Vida es Chula”, or “life is cool”. Take a look at the smiling, posing, joyful models on the runway, and you know, life can be cool. The theme of the show was “Love in the City”, a mod, yet modern look at boys and girls having a ball. Think Twiggy or Jean Shrimpton, skipping through the streets of London, New York or Madrid. No, make that Barcelona, the city that inspired the looks.

“Barcelona is beautiful and colorful and sexy,” said Desigual’s Managing Director, Manuel Jadraque, backstage before the show. We want our customers to feel that way. We want our clothes to make them happy. If you can’t be happy in the fashion business, when can you be?”

It’s the attitude you’d want to wear the Barcelona-based design house’s looks. Big, bold patterns and brightly colored prints decorated short, short skirts, shift dresses, shorts and tops. Black and white with bursts of bright red and orange, purple, navy and green.

Odd, really, for a winter collection, when you just accept all you’re going to see is gray, black and maybe a little brown. But as Jadraque pointed out, “why can’t you have color in winter? Isn’t that when you need it most?”

Because it’s fall/winter, there were biggish belted coats, as well as gloves and accessories. It was about attitude and joy and love, everything Desigual sees in its devoted customers. It’s hard to believe we’ll have to wait six months before we see this collection in Desigual’s shops. But I take comfort in remembering how much I loved their spring collection, and, guess what? That’s in the stores right now! La Vida es Chula.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, Desigual, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW Fall/Winter 2014, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion, New York Fashion Week, NYC, Red Stiletto Media, runway | Leave a comment

GO RED FOR WOMEN/THE HEART TRUTH RED DRESS COLLECTION 2014

Posted on February 15, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

FASHION FOR ONE VERY IMPORTANT CAUSE

Fashion. It’s one of those things that means something different to different women. For many of us, what it means changes several times a day. It keeps our closets full (sometimes too full). It maintains our modesty. It keeps us covered against the cold. It’s an outward expression of who we are inside, or who we’d like to be inside. It makes us feel special when we pick out that piece we love, walk up to the cashier, plonk down our credit card and walk out of the store with an impressive shopping bag.

But if the people at Heart Truth have their way, fashion will force women to think about their health, especially the health of their hearts. Before they dazzle us with celebrities walking the runway in ravishing red designer gowns, they make us listen to some hard heart truths, straight from the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute: heart disease is the number one killer of women. More women die from heart disease than from all forms of cancer, combined. That’s one in three women. And the women they want to reach? The 43 million who are unaware that heart disease is our number one threat.

Once you’ve heard the harsh facts, you’re treated to one amazing show, sponsored by Macy’s and Subway. E! News Alicia Quarles wore Zac Posen. The Good Wife baddie Anika Noni Rose wore Pamella Roland. Carrie Diaries’ Ann Sophia Robb rocked Alice + Olivia. Then, there was Bella Thorne in Badgley Mischka, singer Colbie Caillat in Nicole Miller, a very pregnant Daphne Oz in Sarah Liller, Giada De Laurentiis in Carolina Herrera, Ireland Basinger Baldwin in Donna Karan, Jill Martin in Annina King, Joan Jett in Catherine Malandrino, Joan Van Ark in Mark Zunino, Lindsay Vonn hobbling on crutches in Cynthia Rowley, NeNe Leakes in Black Halo, and so many more.

So, take in the show via our magnificent photos, shot by our own Anton Brookes. Then, go and check your Body Mass Index. Both are guaranteed to make you feel good!

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion, Lifestyle | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Go Red Heart Truth, Heart Truth Red Dress Collection, Lincoln Center, MBFW Fall/Winter 2014, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media | Leave a comment

VENEXIANA SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Posted on January 27, 2014 by Red Stiletto Media

GLAM GOWNS IN ALL THE COLORS OF SPRING

The very first Venexiana runway I covered, many seasons ago was dark, like goth dark. That was my first impression of designer Kati Stern’s looks, beautiful, but dark. Well, take a look at them now.

Her spring/summer runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was just about the opposite of dark. Think of all the colors that remind you of spring, and they were represented: the lightest blue, the softest, creamiest sea green, shiny silver blended with pink, gorgeous lilac and bold tangerine. Some were printed with big, soft flowers, just enough to make them pretty, but never overpowering.

This is red carpet-ready glamour. And Stern accomplishes this amazing elegance by going back to basics: perfect tailoring, stunning textures and just the right amount of bling, enough to enhance, but not so much that it takes away from her craftsmanship, a pair of glimmering clips here, a glistening snake halter there, a long, shining clip or thin belt perfectly placed.

Sequins shimmer on soft overlays, turning simple silhouettes into something special. A strapless, black fishtail dress shined under every runway light. Lace overlays added to the elegance, with soft satins shining through. Ruffles and draping were also used to incredibly beautiful effect.

I think what amazes me most about Venexiana is the sheer volume of dresses that come down that runway. There were 73 (73!!) looks in all, almost unheard of. And these are no simple ready-to-wear schmatas. Each one is complex, different, requiring thought, planning and lots of style. I don’t know how a designer puts idea after idea down on paper, then executes all 73 of them to perfection, but season after season, that’s what Kati Stern does. Gone are the days of goth, now she’s the Empress of glamour.

Photography: Anton Brookes

Posted in Fashion | Tagged Anton Brookes, Debora Fougere, fashion, Lincoln Center, MBFW Spring/Summer 2014, mercedes benz fashion week, New York Fashion Week, Red Stiletto Media, runway, Venexiana | Leave a comment

Red Stiletto Media

LIBERTINE SPRING/SUMMER 2015

BADGLEY MISCHKA SPRING/SUMMER 2015

B MICHAEL AMERICA SPRING/SUMMER 2015

LIBERTINE FALL/WINTER 2014

SON JUNG WAN FALL/WINTER 2014

ZANG TOI FALL/WINTER 2014

BETSEY JOHNSON FALL/WINTER 2014

DESIGUAL FALL/WINTER 2014

GO RED FOR WOMEN/THE HEART TRUTH RED DRESS COLLECTION 2014

VENEXIANA SPRING/SUMMER 2014

Debora Fougere

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Debora Fougere

About Red Stiletto

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Credits

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Followers of Fashion?

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