IF YOU LOVE LUXURY, THIS IS THE COLLECTION FOR YOU

There is something about Son Jung Wan, the person and the collection, that just makes you want to know more. Backstage before her shows, there is a contagious sense of calm. The designer, herself, seems to be at the center of it. Her lovely, welcoming demeanor, her charming smile make you expect a sweet, ladylike collection. How wrong you can be.

There is an unexpected edge to every look. This season, her inspiration was the artist, Mark Rothko, and it’s not difficult to picture in these designs. She started with “winter whites”, something I never believed existed until now. There were soft, comfy jackets, wide-legged pants, below-the-knee skirts, each one with a brilliant surprise: a swatch of metallic magic that added a tough-girl edge to some very feminine clothes.

Slowly the looks morphed, first into earth-toned dresses with little pops of color, then to something darker: grays, aubergines, jewel-toned blues. Then came the glamour, sparkly party dresses and soft, feminine gowns.

The thing about the Son Jung Wan woman, is that she is always feminine, just not “girly”. The skirts and dresses flow, but they’re matched by a harder, more tailored top. They’re sexy, but not overtly so. Her woman is smart, professional and in charge. The tightly slicked-back hair and gold-leaf lips added another dimension to the tough-but-stylish air of the collection.

Her menswear collection has that same cache (without the feminine touches). Jackets were tightly tailored or big and comfy. Sweaters were warm and fuzzy, in the same colors that made her women’s collection so inviting, and with the same metallic touches.

Son Jung Wan is one of the designers I most look forward to seeing, season after season. Yes, the looks are original, intriguing. And walking into her backstage is like entering the inner sanctum of a very good friend. It is always an honor to be invited.

Photography: Anton Brookes