CUSTO BARCELONA FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on June 18, 2013 by

BEAUTY AND THE BEAST BATTLE THE COLD TEMPS TOGETHER

Is it just me, or was there a far more muted tone to Custo Dalmau’s designs this season?  The usual crazy color palette seemed much more subdued for his Fall/Winter 2013 collection.

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But where the bright, spectacular color combos were missing, the mash-up of fabrics and textures that are also a big part of his signature were present in nearly every look.

Custo BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaCusto BarcelonaThe collection was called “The Beauty and The Beast.”  The beauty was represented in a sporty, feminine inspiration, while the beast showed itself in ethnic prints, big, heavy fabrics and plenty of volume.

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There was a definite femininity in the patterned tops, embellished with gold and grommets.  Instead of bold color, there were more subtle blues, dusty pinks, greys and blacks.  Form-fitted dresses and overalls were followed by patchwork prints and voluminous sweaters.

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Women’s pants were relaxed, but nipped at the waist to keep from going boyfriend.  One tweedy-looking pant paired with an almost art-deco looking jacket was a real standout, as was a short, tribal print jacket cinched by a leather belt. There was sparkle and shine in almost every piece.

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His menswear line featured suiting in styles you definitely don’t see every day:  long jackets, wild prints from checks to stripes to tribals and everything in between.  Many were embellished with little pops of leather on the sleeves or shoulders.

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That was the beauty.  Then came the beast.  Outerwear inspired by harsh Nordic winters and the beast trying to protect itself from the cold.  That outerwear was absolutely inspired with big, warm fabrics and the architectural elements that sets Custo Barcelona apart.

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Quilted coats were beautifully embellished.  One men’s jacket in a blue tribal print was splendid.  And big (I mean, really big) woolly scarves topped many of the looks.

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One of the reasons Custo Barcelona is the show everyone wants to see (last season, half the invite-holders couldn’t even make it in the door), is because you know you’ll see something you won’t see everywhere else.  His pieces are like works of art you hold onto forever.

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I have two Custo tops from years ago that I will never let go of.  This season, the colors may have been different, but the artistry and design were ever-present.  I can’t wait to see the colors of Spring.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on June 13, 2013 by

EVERY GIRL’S A PARTY GIRL

Really, what can you say about a Diane von Furstenberg collection?  She is more than a fashion icon, she is, truly, one of the greatest designers.  She knows her customer, and pretty much all women, better than anyone else.

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Why?  Well, let’s start with that wrap dress. Why not? She did.  It was the simplest of ideas that turned out to be just about the best thing a designer has ever done for women.  And we are all grateful that she didn’t rest on her laurels.

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Each and every season, von Furstenberg has come on stronger, the creator of must-have pieces.  You can’t help but be drawn to the color and the easy style of her looks.  She made it simple to be stylish and comfortable.

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This season, the designer took a long look back at her fashions and her life, and came up with the most exuberant collection of them all.  It started with subtle animal prints (who would have thought that was possible?), and added texture with leathers and suede’s (a brown suede wrap dress pretty much said it all).

Diane Von FurstenbergDiane Von FurstenbergDiane Von FurstenbergDiane Von Furstenberg Then came the infusion of disco with spectacular metallic pants and jackets.  The 80s represented with bold prints, bright colors and big(ger) shoulders.

Diane Von FurstenbergDiane Von FurstenbergDiane Von Furstenberg Diane Von FurstenbergThis collection told a story:  the life of a woman, the life of a New Yorker, a life in fashion all played out on the runway at Lincoln Center. 

She says life is a party, and it is always a privilege to be a part of hers.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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MONIQUE L’HUILLIER FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on June 10, 2013 by

LIVING THE BEAUTIFULLY-CLOTHED DREAM

In one of my fashion fantasies, I open my lavish, walk-in closet to find it filled with Monique L’Huillier designs.  On one side, hanger after puffy hanger hold sleek, beautifully tailored suits, slim, stylish trousers and day dresses.  On the other, a collection of long, lavish gowns that are soft, feminine and superbly elegant.  Of course, since this is my fantasy, each item fits like it was made just for me (and, why not?  Maybe each one was), and I have the perfect party or star-studded affair to which to wear them all.

Monique L'HuillierIn real life, I am thrilled to sit in the tents at Lincoln Center, prepared to watch her winter collection strut down the runway.  The backdrop is a liquidy green, adding to the fantasy feel of the moment.  And her looks never disappoint.

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For Fall/Winter 2013, she started the runway with winter whites.  I’ve never been much of a believer in winter white, but these perfectly tailored, soft suits and dresses (one covered with a full-length jacket that was stunning) could convert me.

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There were sporty cigarette-pants and laced covered confections that were the perfect combination of sweet and elegant.  But enough of the real world.  We were quickly approaching fantasy with a selection of breathtaking sequined dresses, skirts and jackets.

Monique L'HullierMonique L'HullierMonique L'HullierMonique L'HullierMonique L'HullierMonique L'HullierMonique L'HullierMonique L'Hullier And, with that, we were eased into the main event:  evening wear.  L’Huillier is, of course, famous for her lavish Red Carpet gowns, and that’s what had the crowd gasping with delight.  A sheer-looking nude with a black spider-web pattern was beyond amazing.  A black lace jumpsuit (I don’t know if you can really call it a jumpsuit), surrounded by tulle was stunning.  It also came in red, for the even more daring.

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Then came the jewel-tones.  That magnificent green of the backdrop translated into the most gorgeous flowing gown, with layer after layer of the shade taking the fall runways by storm (as it did the spring runways).  Another, slightly darker green was embellished in black jet beading.  Aubergines, purples and bright pops of red rounded out the collection.

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It’s no wonder everyone from celebrities to brides wait to see what fantasies L’Huillier will create next.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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JILL STUART FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on June 6, 2013 by

REAL CLOTHES FOR REAL GIRLS

Jill Stuart is one of those designers who is not an enigma.  And that is a good thing.  You know what you’re going to find in her clothes:  feminine, functional and very, very pretty.  The reason I beg to attend her runway season after season, is to see just what she is going to do to keep her looks new and fresh, and she does, every time.

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For Fall/Winter 2013, she did it with texture.  Super functional wools somehow looked sleek and sexy.  A short, teal jacket had those puffed upper arms we’ve seen in a couple of shows, but she managed to make it wearable, paired with charcoal wool pants.

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She used intricate cut-outs in a simple black dress with white collar and cuffs to keep it from looking “mumsy”, and instead elevating it to subtle but sexy.  The same cut-out design showed up in a suit, shorts and an amazing cape as well, all gorgeous.

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Every piece showed an incredible mix of textures:  metallics softened by lace, fluffy wool sweaters that really stood out, lacy dresses with rows of ruffles and a patterned print that shined (literally).

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Stuart’s party-girl looks were all young, fresh and so original.  It’s her stock-in-trade, but somehow she finds new ways to take a standard and make it new.

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The stripey section could have been crazy and unwearable, but Stuart’s impeccable tailoring and creative vision made them the dresses every girl will want to own, and wear.

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In the usually dull winter, there were glorious pops of color in vibrant corals, bright reds and jewel toned purples and aubergines that lit up the runway.

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I know dresses are her thing, but I thought one of the big standouts of the season was outerwear.  Coats and jackets looked simple enough in soft, shiny wools, but the details made them look rich and sophisticated.

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Stuart’s woman is clearly young, gorgeous and fun-loving, everything we all want to be.  But she serves them so well with her fantastic design and attention to detail, it’s no wonder her shows are packed, every season.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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KATYA LEONOVICH FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on June 4, 2013 by

HARD-EDGED ROMANCE WITH A FEMININE FLAIR

Katya Leonovich 2As a not very girly-girl, I am always on the lookout for women’s fashion with an edge.  Don’t get me wrong, I love to look at flouncy and pink (I even write these blogs on a pink laptop), but I knew a long time ago that I couldn’t wear those ultra-feminine styles.  They just don’t feel comfortable.

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So I look forward to Katya Leonovich’s collections every season.  Her girl is the one who’s out clubbing all night and somehow looks just a gorgeous in the morning as she’s getting out of the cab and boldly walking to her door, no shame, no guilt.  She’s a little bit tough, but unmistakably female.

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The award-winning Russian designer is a master of prints, and this season’s midnight-blue-and-grey was beautiful, and almost haunting.  It was used in dresses that varied in style from shirt to bare-shouldered to draped, and each had a special touch: a slit here, a ruffle there.

Katya LeonovichKatya LeonovichKatya LeonovichKatya Leonovich Not surprisingly, leather, too, was a big feature in the collection.  Black leather, of course.  One ruched jacket was so unusual, fitted yet slouchy.  Leather dresses were embellished with asymmetrical zips.

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At the end of the runway were a series of evening dresses, some with her original blue and grey pattern, that were wispy and probably the most strictly feminine pieces of the collection.  But she never lost her edge.  I hope she never does.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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REBECCA MINKOFF FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on May 9, 2013 by

WHAT THE COOL GIRLS WILL WEAR IN THE FUTURE, AND BEYOND

OK, hands up.  I am one of those people (I’m assuming I’m not the only one) who spends actual time, every season, thinking about developing my personal “style”.  You know, the kind of look that becomes your signature.  Is it pink and girly? No.  Is it punk or hippie or strictly business? No, no and no.  I’ve been doing this for as long as I can remember. And now I know.  I want to be the Rebecca Minkoff woman.

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Her own description says her Fall/Winter 2013 collection “embarks on a voyage into the future, marrying modern, spacesuit-like construction details and a new, sophisticated grunge attitude.”  In the hands of a lesser designer, you can only imagine what that would look like.  But Rebecca Minkoff is also a realist.  Backstage, before her show, she told me, “it’s really fun to design things no one can wear, but I’m in a business.”  She explained, “we call it the ‘trifecta’, when you have editorial respect, commercial success and the customer approves.  That’s what we go for.”

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And she achieves it in this glorious collection of wearable designs with a definite edge.  She talks about “fearlessness” and how it taps into todays “confident, self-assured woman.” Yeah, everything I strive to be.

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Her jackets are strong, pants are just relaxed enough to be chic without being sloppy.  Dresses are feminine without being too “girly”.  There are so many standouts in this collection, from quilted leather jackets to asymmetrical dresses and straight, sassy skirts.

Rebecca MinkoffRebecca MinkoffRebecca MinkoffRebecca MinkoffThe spacesuit-influence came in the form of tops and dresses with, well, it’s kind of hard to explain, but you can see them, rounded sleeves at the top.  They could have been comical, instead, they are a soft, creative detail that makes them different, but desirable.

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What’s really special here is the range of choices here.  She told me, “we’re opening a store in August, and I definitely wanted to provide every aspect of what I was going to put in the store.”  So, what we’re seeing is, apart from the ready-to-wear, everything from a beautiful and practical range of outerwear to swimsuits.

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Her tough-girl-with-taste looks were perfectly complemented by the makeup, by Stila.  Artist Corey Bishop described it as simple and natural.  He said, “Stila is all about obtainable beauty that anyone can wear. For fall, it’s about this bright, almost cobalt, blue.”  He added, “anyone can wear it.  It’s something that makes you feel pretty.  It’s something that makes you feel fresh.”

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If you’re already a Rebecca Minkoff fan (and how can you not be?), you know this is typical Minkoff, a pretty girl who can kick butt, when required.  Gorgeousness with an edge.  Everything I see in myself, in my more delusional moments.  But, hey, I’m so happy there’s a designer who sees the real me, and at least I can buy the clothes.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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CARMEN MARC VALVO FALL/WINTER 2013

Posted on April 7, 2013 by

MYSTERIOUS, ROMANTIC DENIZENS OF THE NIGHT

The master of hard-edged romance described what we could expect to see at his runway show in perfectly poetic form:  “haunting and alluring”, dark shadows, moonlit sonatas, baroque scrolls and rock and roll”, “mysterious, intoxicating creatures”, and “eternal romantic nights”.

Carmen Marc ValvoIt sounds so painfully sexy that it could have translated to trashy on the runway.  But in the hands of Carmen Marc Valvo, that was never going to be.  It was sexy, and feminine, and strong.  This is a designer who knows what his woman wants.

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His style statement comes in the form of an incredible mix of textures.  Embossed patent leather decorates a shiny, satiny dress while intricate lace shines.  Beautiful, sophisticated prints lead to nearly-sheer hemlines on serious dresses.

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One of the criteria for presenting a mysterious, leather and lace kind of collection is that most, if not all, must be black.  And the majority of the looks were done in black, but the pops of colors in jewel-toned grape on dresses and skirts, aubergine on an amazing evening gown and one hot red in another evening dress, were surprising, and so welcome.

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But the most exciting part of the collection was the combination of leather and lace.  Tough, leather bustiers were covered in soft, feminine lace.  The result was gothic, romantic and incredibly beautiful.

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Because he is such a sophisticated designer, Valvo is able to design clothes for the women who can afford them, and give them more than an evening dress, skirt, or pair of pants. He can give them a fantasy, whether that fantasy is goth princess or biker chick, but always with style.

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Sadly, the storm some called Nemo with its deep snow and driving winds, hit on the day of Valvo’s show, and that knocked out a great deal of his audience.  That was very bad news for them.  The show was spectacular, the perfect showcase of what a fine designer he is. I’m betting everyone will show up for Spring.

Photography: Anton Brookes

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